Lower Saxony - Germany

Since we last wrote we’ve had a very busy but lovely time staying in a small village with Liane’s cousin and her family (Anne, Heiner and their daughter Johanne). It has been great getting to know our relatives a bit more and the people here are very friendly and helpful. Many speak very good English and all have tried to speak some English which helps both of us. Liane’s German is improving (as is Rex’s German – especially his food vocabulary) and generally we are able to be understood. We have been out every day seeing the sights – old churches and houses, walking through forests and meeting many of the locals.

Alt Wallmoden

Anne and Heiner's House

Alt Wallmoden (old Wallmoden as opposed to new Wallmoden) is a beautiful little village of 500 people on the edge of a forest. They even have their own fair dinkum Earl (who we met as we wandering through his grounds one afternoon and has his own ornately carved pew in the church).The Earls's Mansion

There are no shops or schools there now – only a church and fire brigade. The houses all have older style exteriors but many are renovated and quite modern inside.

We went to the annual Fireman’s dance on Saturday night. It was a lot of fun with lots of beer and German food (red cabbage, potatoes, dumplings, beef roulades) being consumed (and the occasional Schnapps). We listened to the funny stories from the older firemen and danced till after midnight. Then the Mother’s were all called to the bar for a Mother’s Day Schnapps!!!

The next day we attended the local church. It was a traditional Lutheran service with the pastor preaching from the high pulpit! We even managed to work out the German hymns which had a very nice pipe organ accompaniment. There were only about 15 in the congregation and you had to be quick to get your offering in the bag because the usher who has been doing the job for many years delights in fanning the hymn books as he sweeps the bag (which is on the end of a long pole) past!

Click play button to hear the Church Bells playing on Sunday Morning

Click play button to hear the Church organ

The Pastor preaching from the "High Pulpit"!!

Later on in the week we went for a long walk through the forest, it is beautiful and green at this time of year (Spring)! Anne showed us some plants that you can use as herbs.

Our week concluded with a neighbourhood bbq. It was a National Holiday for Ascension Day (which they claim as Father’s Day). It is tradition to undertake a family hike through the woods in the afternoon. Again much bratwurst, red wine and a special brew of May beer were consumed. The men introduced Rex to a new card game called Skat (a complicated card game like bridge) which is not advisable after having had a few beers!!!!!

Braunschweig/ Salzgitter

Today Heiner & Anne took us to Braunschweig (Brunswick) which was the chosen residence of Henry the Lion (one of the most powerful princes in Europe) during the twelfth century. The historic part of the city is still completely surrounded by water but damage during the war means there are now modern shops mixed with the old buildings. Right next to Henry’s castle is a modern day “castle” (shopping centre)!

The St. Martini church (founded in 1190) had some beautiful sculptures including the Wise and Foolish Virgins and St. Martini dividing his coat with a sword to clothe a beggar.

Later on we went to visit a festival at a museum (Museumsfest) in Salzgitter where Johanne was doing some face painting. There were people dressed in medieval costumes, jugglers, blacksmiths, bakers and many different market stalls where you could taste many different kinds of mustard (senf), chutneys, pesto and jam.

Harz Mountains/ Brocken

Today we drove past the old East West border with Heiner and Anne to catch the narrow gauge steam train (the longest and most scenic in the country) 19km up to “The Brocken” (1142m). It was used as a military area for border surveillance but now, of course, it is open to all and many people walk or hike up along the many paths through the beautiful forest. We had coffee and cake on the train and it was fun trying to drink it with the rattling of the train! It was freezing cold at the top (10 degrees with a chilly wind) so we warmed up with a meal of pea soup with bockwurst.

Hildesheim

We had a beautiful sunny day for our visit here with Anne. Some of the finest buildings in all of Germany are to be found here. Most of the town was burnt during the war however many have now been recreated. To help visitors you follow a trail of white roses along with your brochure to tour the streets.

The Butcher’s Guild hall (Knochenbaueramtshaus), originally built in 1529 is supposed to be the most beautiful half-timbered house in the world.

In the Dom cloister we found the famous thousand year old rosebush to which the legend of Hildesheim’s foundation is tied. Apparently in 815, Ludwig the Pious hung the relics of the Virgin on the tree while he was out hunting. When he tried to remove them later they would not budge so he decided to build a church on the spot. The bush has flowered every year since, even when the Dom was flattened during the war (but it was not in flower while we were there).

We visited several beautiful churches. The Basilica of St. Godehard had a stunningly huge wheel chandelier representing the adoration of the Lamb according to Revelation.

Goslar

Today Johanne took us into Goslar. As it was a day where Volkswagen was exhibiting a new model to some clients we were unable to go inside the castle and difficulty getting a parking spot. We walked in the rain in the morning but it was fine after we had some coffee and cake and in time for our afternoon tour which Heiner had especially arranged with an American colleague from the school where he works.

Goslar claims to have more old houses (from1500, with 168 dating from before 1550) than any other town in Germany. Silver was discovered nearby in the tenth century, and the town immediately prospered, soon becoming the treasure chest of the Roman Empire, and a favourite royal seat. As a free imperial city in the later Middle Ages, Goslar ranked as one of the most prosperous communities in Europe, with lead and zinc also being mined.

The houses had many interesting features - Bible scriptures, lavishly decorated with ornate carvings and symbols depicting all aspects of medieval life and folklore.

The modern Glockenspeil in the town marketplace (Marktplatz) has a window with characters that come out and explain how the horse of a knight pawed on the ground and uncovered the silver and miners hacking away through the ages.

The hall of Homage (Huldigungssaal) has a beautifully preserved interior from the Middle Ages. The ceiling has gold stars and chandeliers with antlers and carved figures of emperors. It has richly decorated panels which show scenes from the life of Christ and various citizens of Goslar. They are now preserved in a climate controlled room but you can watch a short video about it (in English) and peer through a window.

We also had to visit the musical instrument museum ( Musikinstrumentemuseum) which had many odd instruments from around the world like a violin with a trumpet horn attached, trombones shaped like saxophones (not true trombones according to Rex as they had valves like trumpets), a bass guitar from Paul McCartney, many old lutes, harps and miniature instruments. We were not allowed to take photos so we bought some postcards.

We had a lovely time in this area of Germany and have many many fond memories and photographs.

The Old Town Wall